Daily Diaries (9/5/10 - 9/6/10)

Date:  9/5/10
Trail Section:  Tenn 91 - Wilbur Dam Rd.
Distance:  16.1 miles

Today will be one of the longest, if not the longest, hikes we have had since we started at Springer Mtn. in Georgia.  Weather is perfect.  At the start, it is in the high 40s to low 50s, and a breeze is blowing just about all day.  With these temperatures, it is feeling more and more like fall.  We start with a decent climb the first two miles.  It is relatively level for the next six, then a long downhill until Wilbur Dam Rd.

No critter sightings today but there are a lot of trees.  Of interest today: we passed a monument to Nick (Uncle Nick) Grindstaff.  Nick had traveled west in the early 1880s to win his fortune but was robbed.  He returned to Iron Mountain where he lived as a hermit until he died 40 years later.  His memorial is a plaque placed on the chimney.  It was placed there in 1925, two years after his death.

Also on this hike, we had Watauga Lake in view for a lot of the time.  When TVA built the lake they displaced about 700 people.  With all the dams they built in the south, TVA displaced nearly 75,000 people.

In summary, even though the hike was a long hike it was an interesting one.

Nick Grindstaff memorial

Watauga Lake

Date:  9/6/10
Trail Section:  Low Gap (Shady Valley) - Damascus, VA
Distance:  15 miles

Today is the last day for this year’s Appalachian Trail hike.  It will be a fairly level hike for ten miles, then a slow descent into Damascus.  Should be an easy hike.  Weather is perfect for hiking again today.  We have been blessed with good weather for most of the last 200 miles.

With the knowledge that this will be the last hike on the AT this year and the anticipation of a juicy hamburger in Damascus make this day feel like the longest day we have hiked.  It wasn’t; we did it in 6.5 hours which includes stops for breaks.

We passed a shelter today (McQueens Knob Shelter) which was built in 1934; it looks it.  Near the shelter on McQueens Knob, there were concrete bases for towers that were constructed in 1932.  There was no indication as to what the towers were for.  However, being engineers, we made the assumption that they were for a radio repeater.

In addition, we crossed into another state (Virginia), three down eleven to go.  And at the end of today’s hike we only have 1,715.6 miles left to hike on the AT to complete it.

The hamburger was delicious (sorry no picture of the burger).  Now the wait until Ellen and Margie arrive.  Until then, it is laundry, cleaning up the hiking gear and several good naps.

Thank you all for your comments, I enjoyed them.

McQueens Knob Shelter

Richard

Jerry

Daily Diaries (9/1/10 - 9/3/10)

Date:  9/1/10
Trail Section:  Walnut Mtn. Rd. - Dennis Cove
Distance:  14.0 miles

The day starts out cool, it is feeling a lot like fall.  Even some of the leaves are calling it fall and changing colors, then falling.  This was a good day for a hike.  It was a long hike with the only drawback being the long descent from the top.  This was hard on the feet and legs.

There were few good views however, as most of the walk was tree covered.  We did have a critter encounter today.  The critter was a little brown snake.  It thought its camouflage was good enough that it could not be seen.  It just lay in the trail very still, and did not move while we were there.

In addition, the cold soda that we got at end of the day from a gas station was pretty fantastic.

Fall leaves

Small snake (he thinks we don't see it!)

Date:  9/2/10
Trail Section:  Dennis Cove - Wilbur Dam Rd.
Distance:  13.1 miles
 
The drive out to where we park the return vehicle at Watauga Lake was beautiful.  Lots of red barns, cows, pasture land and the river.  The trail on the other hand offered some wicked climbing into the river’s gorge, followed with an 1800 foot climb out, followed by another long descent.


The critter encounter today was a large spider that decided it did not want its picture taken so it hid in a hole before I could get the camera out.


We had snacks by a pretty Watauga Lake.  We then crossed our second dam on the AT.  The downside to being near the lake was that there was no breeze.  This coupled with reflections off the lake made it warm.


All in all it was another great day of hiking.

Rural scene

Camera-shy spider's web

Watauga Lake

 

Date:  9/3/10
Trail Section:  Low Gap (Shady Valley) - Tenn. 91
Distance:  6.5 miles

Today we opted for a short day and easy day.  The critter encounter today was a fast-moving tortoise on its through-hike from Low Gap to Tenn. 91; hopes to make it before the first snow (all 6.5 miles).  Near the end of this hike we came across a section of the trail that has been set up to accept wheelchairs so that everyone can enjoy the AT.


Along the way we met another hiker who informed us of an ice chest left by trail angels that had soda and candy in it.  The ice chest was just out of view from the public on the trail just beyond where we parked.  We did not partake because we had our own; but it still makes me feel good knowing that these people (Trail Angels) are still out there. A great way to end the day.
 
 

View at the start of today's hike

Tortoise

Wheelchair accessible portion of the trail

Daily Diaries (8/29/10 - 8/30/10)

Date:  8/29/10
Trail Section:  Carvers Gap - US 19E
Distance:  14.4 miles

With Roan Mtn. at our back, we begin today with a climb to the top of Round Bald.  This is the first of a series of balds that we will climb today.  FYI, balds are areas on mountain tops where there are no trees. While none of the southern portion of the Appalachian Trail rises above the tree line, scientists are mystified as to why there are no trees.

On Round Bald the USFS is conducting an experiment to remove non-native plants on balds.  There is a herd of Angora goats that love these plants, especially Canadian blackberry which is taking over the balds.  Guarding these goats is a pair of Great Pyrenees dogs.  When I got near the fence these two dogs let me know, in no uncertain terms, I should leave.  The fence is an electric fence that is solar powered, and there are warnings to the curious hiker to keep off it.

About five miles into the hike we reach Overmountain Shelter.  The shelter is an old red barn that has been renovated into a shelter for hikers and served as a back drop in the movie “Winter People”.

With movies on my mind I could not help but think of Julie Andrews and the “The Hills Are Alive With The Sound Of Music” as we were on top of both Little Hump Mountain Bald and Hump Mountain Bald.  They reminded me of the scene where she was running across the top of the mountain and singing.  It was very pretty there.

Seasonally, on the top of Hump Mountain, there is a herd of longhorn cows.  We just missed the season and therefore, the cows.  It looked as if they had been moved within the last week.

After the vigorous climbs to the tops of all the balds, the five mile descent was not going to be outdone in how hard it was.  At times the descents were very steep and over large, loose rocks.  This was very hard on the feet and the legs.

Today’s hike was a beautiful hike that I would recommend to anyone fit enough for it.  If I have the opportunity to do it again, it will be a two to three day hike so that I can enjoy all the beauty there is at different times of the day.
 

Roan Mountain as seen from Round Bald

Great Pyrenees guard dog telling me to move on!

Angora goat telling me not to listen to dog

Overmountain Shelter

Hump Mountain Bald

Trail descending off Hump Mountain

Date:  8/30/10
Trail Section:  US 19E - Walnut Mtn. Rd
Distance: 10.4 miles

When we started this morning, the weather was cool and clear; however the vegetation was saturated with dew, thus we got very wet.  In addition to getting wet, this section of the trail was one of the most poorly marked sections that we have been on.  When we came to intersections with other trails we had to search for the right trail.  At times we had to go up the trails as much as 200 ft before we found a blaze letting us know we were on the right trail.

Other than these minor problems this was a pretty hike that was up and down.  It provided us with a couple of waterfalls, about a mile of hiking along a creek, and plenty of climbing.

This hike drove home the point to me the need for drinking, eating and resting periodically.  Due to the nature of the trail (not that strenuous or that hot), I nearly went too far without doing this.

Jones Falls

A creek we followed for about a mile

Daily Diaries (8/24/10 - 8/27/10)

Date:  8/24/10
Trail Section:  Iron Mtn. Gap - Indian Grave Gap
Distance:  11.2 miles

The morning temperatures are in the high 50s to low 60s...ideal for hiking. Starting at Iron Mtn. going south on the trail. The trail is ideal; wide smooth with a gentle incline.  It stays that way pretty much until Low Gap. At this point it begins getting progressively rockier and steeper.  From Low Gap, we climb approximately 1300 ft. to the top of Unaka Mtn.  (Unaka means 'white' in the Cherokee language).  Near the top we come across a large stand of Red Spruce.  On this hike we go through several areas where different vegetation is prominent: mature spruce at summit; young evergreens just below summit; below that, other green tunnel vegetation; large meadows where a farm had once been; and finally near the bottom, a burned area where the trees have not yet reestablished.

I had three creature encounters today (no pictures).  First, a fawn jumps in front of my vehicle.  The next encounter, I'm already on the trail and a deer in the brush right next to me spooks and runs.  To say that I was startled is an understatement!  Lastly, a deer approximately 50 ft. from me gets spooked.

Today was a moderately hard day but very enjoyable.

A unique tree among a stand of red spruce on Unaka Mtn.

Young evergreens

The green tunnel

A meadow

Date:  8/25/10
Trail Section:  Carvers Gap - Hughes Gap
Distance:  5.3 miles

This hike takes us over Roan Mtn.  Here there is a rhododendron garden that is supposed to be spectacular in June.  Unfortunately it is August, so we did not visit the garden.

The morning is chilly and very foggy and very wet (water streams were flowing down the middle of the trail in numerous places). It was cool in more ways than one.

Near the top of Roan Mtn. we visit Roan High Knob Shelter.  This is the highest shelter on the AT.  The shelter was built in 1933 by the CCC (an organization that was formed by Franklin Roosevelt to put people back to work during the great depression) to serve as the fire warden’s cabin.

The trail today was both some of the worst we have been on; and for at least a mile, it was the absolute best trail we have hiked.  The worst section was a very steep decent with large loose, slippery rocks.  The best was a gentle sloping wide trail consisting of mulched vegetation that was compressed and soft.  This was easy on the feet and legs.

The only critters seen today, with no pictures, were two woodchucks.
 

Roan High Knob Shelter

Can you see the trail??

The Trail in fog

Date:  8/27/10

Trail Section:  Hughes Gap - Iron Mtn. Gap
Distance:  9.2 miles

Today we relocate from Hot Springs, NC to Elizabethton, TN.

We start the day with a nice two mile 900 ft climb with the remainder of the day downhill except for three or four, 100 to 200 foot bumps in the trail.  The forest that we were hiking through was pretty, but not pictorial.  Along the way, we hike through an old apple orchard.  Lots of apples; but I could not get any to fall for me (darn it).  When we get back to Hughes Gap, we have a late lunch.  Just as we are getting ready to leave I find a chestnut.  Richard looks around and finds another.  We had lunch under a large chestnut tree. In our vehicles headed down the hill, we see more chestnuts in the road.  Now if we only had an open fire, we could have roasted chestnuts. We both were under the impression that chestnut trees were nearing extinction.

Of note on this hike, we meet a fellow hiker from the Asheville NC area, our age, who had served on the USS Oriskney in the sixties.  He was on board when a fire occurred that killed 44 crew members.  Ironically, as I was typing up this blog, I had the television on and the story of the sinking of the Oriskney as it was making a man-made reef off the coast of Florida was showing.  During the program, the story of the fire is televised.

Sorry no pictures today.

Daily Diaries (8/20/10 - 8/23/10)

Date:  8/20/10
Trail Section:  Sam's Gap - Spivey Gap
Distance:  13.4 miles

We have a long, foggy drive for parking the vehicles.  It's a beautiful day for a hike.  It's overcast when we start, and partly cloudy the remainder.  We have nice trails with open fields and a large bald (sort of a prairie on top of the mountain).  It was long and tiring, but good.

We encountered our first creatures that were satisfied to stand still for pictures today.  There were four doe and one fawn.  The deer, even though aware that we were there, did not feel the need to run off.  We spent several minutes looking at them and observing their actions (eating and looking at us).  We were fairly close to them.

Bambi says "hi"

After seeing the deer, we hiked on to Bald Mtn. where there were wild blueberries....which I partook of...they were delicious.  Bald Mtn. has two peaks, the blueberries were on the southern peak.  The locals knew of the blueberries.  We passed four ladies from the area who were on their way to the top to pick berries.  They didn't seem to have a problem climbing the mountain and talking at the same time.  Once on top of the peak, in addition to the berries were great views.

Bald Mtn.

Wild blueberries

It was a long day with the driving and the hike, but worth it.


Date:  8/21/10
Trail Section:  Spivey Gap - Chestoa Bridge (over the Nolichucky River)
Distance:  11.2 miles

It was overcast all day today with rain during the last half of the hike.  It was great for hiking, but not for viewing.  On this hike we passed areas that were filled with nothing but dead or downed trees....almost as if a fire had hit the area.  It was the typical up and down hike that the AT has to offer; green tunnel broken by the dead areas.  There were some great views of the Nolichucky River when we got near the end of the hike.

Nolichucky River

The shelter that we passed along the way was surrounded by large Fraser magnolias and mammoth hemlocks.  However, due to their size, location and the weather, was unable to get any decent photos.


Date:  8/23/10
Trail Section:  Indian Grave Gap - Chestoa Bridge
Distance:  8.3 miles

Clear, mild weather with a gentle downhill hike most of the time; some bad rock the rest.  What more can I say....Great!  Was not nearly as sweaty a hike as the other days.

I saw my first orange salamander and we crossed our first railroad track on the AT.  The hike was so easy, it was almost boring....not really.

Orange salamander

First railroad track encountered on the AT

Daily Diaries (8/17/10 - 8/18/10)

Date:  8-17-10
Trail Section:  Blackstack Cliff - Devil Fork Gap
Distance:  12.1 miles

Today starts off very foggy. We start in very heavy vegetation which turns into large rocks that we scramble over to a ridge. Views from the ridge are finally clear and awesome. Off the ridge and to my shelter, “Jerry’s Cabin”.  The shelter is rather run down and messy.  From there, it is on the trail again through very thick briar patches with a very narrow path for walking.

Foggy Morning

Heavy vegetation and large rocks

More heavy vegetation

My shelter - how did they know I was here??

On this hike we see:

* Andrew Johnson Mountain named after the president who was VP under Abraham Lincoln.  In addition he was from Tennessee.

*The final resting place for an uncle and nephew who had enlisted in the Union Army during the Civil War. They were ambushed and killed by Confederate Troops while returning to a family gathering.

Tombstone of William Shelton

Tombstone of David Shelton

*A wild turkey that wanted to stay on the trail just ahead of me until I got the camera out to take its picture; then it disappeared into the thick brush.

* On the way to get Richard's vehicle, two doe and a fawn decided to run down the road in my lane for 200 to 300 feet. I was concerned that one of them was going to turn around and tell me to get off their road.

We did get rained on. All in all a great day for a great hike.
 
 
Date:  8-18-10
Trail Section:  Blackstack Cliff - Alan Gap
Distance: 8.2 miles

Like yesterday, today starts with fog at Blackstack Cliff.  Other than some great views of the mountains at White Rock Cliffs and mushrooms that are dying, we did not see much.  It was just a great hike with the beautiful mountain trails.  Due to the rain last night it was very humid.


 

View from White Rock Cliff

Mushroom in final stage

Another mushroom in its final stage

Some Pix (8/10/10 - 8/14/10)

Following are some photos I managed to upload today:

Early morning view as we drive to the start of the next trailhead

Tall grass along the trail

Green mushroom

Truckin' along - Tom & Richard

A blurry privvy

Max Patch

The Hikers:  l-r, Tom, Jerry, Richard, Ted

The green tunnel